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Gerona Spain Mini Guide

Between the Costa Brava and the highest Pyrenees, the heart of the province of Gerona is surprisingly untouristified, despite the hordes that descend on the Costa Brava and the ski resorts of the Pyrenees, bypassing its oasis of rolling green hills and occasional geological oddities. Yet it is tourism, more than anything that has brought the province its new status as the wealthiest in all Spain.

Spread over a tumble of hills at the confluence of the Onyar and Ter rivers, the capital Gerona (ancient Gerunda) is one of Catalunya's most atmospheric little cities. Its position has brought it a history tormented with sieges, most famously in ,1809, when the city's inhabitants withstood 35,000 French troops for seven months, giving up only when their supplies were exhausted. Few of its embattled walls remain; like so many cities in Spain, Girona has burst its buttons in the last few decades.

The Old Town
Fortunately, Gerona's Old Town (Barri Veil) has been lovingly neglected. Its dim, narrow streets and passages, its steep stairs, little plazas, archways and solid stone buildings offer any number of elegant perspectives. In recent years, in an attempt to keep the Old Town from falling too deeply asleep, the town approved the placement of various departments of the University of Catalonia within its quarters, adding a bit of student verve to the area.

Across the Onyar from the old town is Girona's Eixample, a miniature version of Barcelona's, complete with a handful of minor modernista buildings designed by poet Rafael Maso (see the Casa Teixidor and Farinera Teixidor in C/de Santa Eugenia). Cross between the two on the Pont de les Peixateries Velles for the muchphotographed view of the colourfully painted houses built up directly over the river.

The main street of medieval Girona, the Carrer de la Forca, follows the Roman Via Augusta, the road of conquest. Narrow and winding, it seems to have changed little since the day when Girona's famous Jewish quarter, El Call, was defined by its southern most reaches, around the steep alleys of Sant Llorenc and Cundaro. Like the calls of Barcelona and Tarragona, the quarter came under the direct authority of the king, enjoying total autonomy from the municipal council, the Jurats - a situation designed to exacerbate tension, for the kings not only regarded the Jewish communities as a national resource and favoured them at the expense of others, but made use of these enclaves to meddle in city affairs.

But before the decline into the 15th century, when the Jurats, egged on by a fanatical clergy and jealous debtors, managed to isolate the Call into a ghetto with one sole entrance, Girona's Jews had founded an important school of Jewish mysticism, the Cabalistas de Girona. The most celebrated member, Moses Ben Nahman, or Nahmanides, was born in Girona in 1194 and helped diffuse Cabalistic studies throughout Europe.