Kyrenia has a pretty harbour but a non-descript city behind it. Most tourists head straight for the tavernas that line the harbour or head out of the city for the beaches along the north coast or up into the mountains to visit the jaw-dropping settings of the old crusader castles of Buffavento, St Hilarion and Kantara.
Each has a vivid and exciting history and the effort of the climb to the top of each is rewarding, if only for the spectacular views. For a more sedate visit, try Bellapais Abbey in the village immortalised by Lawrence Durrell’s autobiographical Bitter Lemons.
Kyrenia Mini Guide
Kyrenia is also known as Girne by the Turkish speaking peoples who have occupied Northern Cyprus since the 1974 invasion.
If ever you wondered how people could fight over a small island, the stunningly beautiful harbour town of Kyrenia might give you an answer. Although it only has a population of 22,000, Kyrenia is the most popular tourist attraction in Northern Cyprus.
This picture perfect town has retained an old world charm. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the glitzy Rocks Hotel with its wooden bathing platform which stretches out over the Mediterranean Sea. When you see the nearby casino too, this part of the island is truly reminiscent of the French Riviera.
Getting to Kyrenia is not hard. If you have come from southern Cyprus there is a main border crossing on the outskirts of Nicosia, but make sure you do your best to remember your way there and back as the border crossings are not really sign posted.
The route is fantastically scenic as you go up over the Kyrenia mountains. Then as the road starts to go down again you get magnificent sea views.
One of the most impressive sights in Kyrenia is its castle which is thought to have been built by the Byzantines in the 7th century. Over the years it was used by the Romans, Lusignans, Venetians and Ottomans. Most recently the British used the castle as a prison, though now it is just a tourist attraction. The castle would have been an imposing sight greeting sailors as they headed into the bay from the Mediterranean. There is also a museum dedicated to those ships that did not make it. The shipwreck museum has the preserved remains of a wooden ship dating back to around 300 BC.
Although most shops, bars and restaurants (and there are many in Northern Cyprus) accept the Euro, their official currency is the Turkish Lira.
It is worth trying to get some of this currency if you can before visiting so that you get best value for your money. There are some very good hotels in Kyrenia and the surrounding areas, many of which have swimming pools and spectacular views.
The Cyprus Turkish airlines company Atlas Air fly to Ercan airport in North Cyprus or you can fly to Larnaca airport and cross the border. If you are coming to Kyrenia from Turkey there are frequent ferry services operated by Fergün Shipping which connect Alanya and Tasucu to Kyrenia.
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